Restaurant review: Dolly Alderton on Evelyn’s Table, Soho – The Times

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Dolly Alderton 

Table Talk: the basement that delivers an elevating experience

The Sunday Times, 

PG Wodehouse wrote a classification system for hangovers that, increasingly over the years, I have found to be one of the most profoundly accurate things I have ever read. He describes the Broken Compass, symptoms of which include “stumbling … tripping, disorientation, dizziness, aimless wandering, and the sudden and crippling inability to find one’s way home”. He also speaks of the Atomic, which is “strictly physical. Its symptoms include many varieties of headache and, in extreme cases, deafness.” And my personal favourite, the Gremlin Boogie: “It has the peculiar distinction of being enjoyable, and is thus sought out by hangover connoisseurs … Most commonly, it fuels within the sufferer a rampant desire to continue drinking, the victim becoming so caught up in the joy of the communal…

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